Rewind to September 1st...
After a ten day return to the land of the morning calm, I found myself all packed up and ready[ish] to move on. I'd taught my last classes, shipped my last boxes and paid my last bills. I took one last look around my Korean abode, grabbed my pack, and dreamt my way through a last ride into Seoul. Getting off the subway at Hongik University Station, I knew exactly where I was and where I was headed, a drastic difference from a year prior when my first venture into the city left me feeling disoriented and lost in a sea of neon and noise. One last night with the chingus was necessary, as we all tried to temper the impending separation anxiety. As it was, we had a fab evening eating one last round of bbq, drinking one last round of soju and mekju, and taking some rad group sticky photos. Even those of us who thought we were a little too cool for such antics.
[Kuala Lampur, Malaysia] Kuala Lampur has roaches and rats and streets that smell like pee. I has men who leer unashamedly at western women and copious amounts of sludge in the streets. BUT, if you peel the grit away and let it fade into the background, KL has some pretty rad stuff going on. There are stunningly peaceful mosques, and extravagant Hindu temples. There are the vibrant and bustling (albeit a bit overwhelming) Chinatown and Little India, each filled with piles of merchandise, beautiful fabrics, and delicious street food for about a dollar.
Ali and I wandered, and shopped, and explored. We braved the fish-spa-pedicure tanks once more (Ali's idea). We even managed to order a meal containing no less than twelve chicken hearts (Yes, I counted. No, we didn't eat all of them. They taste like blood.)
Being a Muslim country, Malaysia doesn't exactly have a rockin' party scene. So, having spent hours wandering the streets, temples, markets, etc. Ali and I spent one evening relaxing around the hostel, noses burried in books. The evening we did decided to venture out on the town, we hit up the super swanky SkyBar (where we had absolutely no business) drank super swanky mojitos, and (most importantly) caught this super swanky view of the famous Petronus Towers. Pretty legit.
Three days in KL was about enough and, while I can't say that it is my favorite city I've ever been, or number one on my list of places to return ASAP, I do think the places we saw were interesting and unlike anything I've ever seen before. The food was amazing and, when things got a little too raw, there was a lovely, clean, and peaceful park to stroll through and escape the city. There was time to read and wander and relax and a few days to absorb the fact that for the foreseeable future, Ali and I had no responsibilities beyond ourselves (and keeping each other out of trouble). In hindsight KL was pretty sweet, even if it took some coaxing to get beyond the grit.
[Pulau Perhentian Kecil, Perhentian Islands, Malaysia] I must preface this tidbit by acknowledging that only in retrospect it is an ridiculous/hysterical story. At the time I suppose it was a bit (a lot) questionable. Such is life. Moving on. We've left KL right? Right. Were on the first of many night buses we will take over the next few weeks. Not really a big deal. We board, people are loud, we sleep-ish, and we roll into Kuala Bessut, enroute to beachy paradise at about 6am. It's still dark out. Fine. Everyone else has gotten off of the bus at previous stops. Fine. We are dropped off, not right at the pier, but in a large empty parking lot. Ok, still fine. We get out, grab our bags, and notice a slightly worse for the wear man standing near by. He is the only other person in the parking lot and promptly spits out the standard, "Where you go?" which, after essentially a month in SE Asia, I ignore. I instead ask the bus driver where we can buy ferry tickets to the islands. Said bus driver proceeds to look at me like an alien and points to our welcoming committee, who is now producing a business card. Awesome. Ali and I check out the mans business card, which indicates that he is part of a legitimate enterprise (in theory) and ask him how much the tickets will be. Seeing as we don't know where we are and have little other options, we decide to follow our new friend down the street. All of this is a little less fine. After a short walk through empty back streets, during which I was creeping 5 feet away trying to figure out whether the object in our friends hand was a pen or a knife (it was a pen) and Ali was lurking 10 feet away preparing to drop her pack and throw down if this little adventure went sour, we reached a totally legitimate tour office where we could buy our official tickets to and from the island. Great. Awesome. Fantastic! Note to our chaperone: lurking in the dark by yourself and grunting "Where you go??!" at young female travelers is not, in fact, a great business model.
So we get to the island, right? Wait. Not quite. First we have to follow a different young Malaysian man from the office to the pier, which happens to be closed. "No problem," says our newest friend. We can climb over the wall. Most boats dont leave until seven; but, seeing as he has to pick a group up first thing in the morning, we can leave early. Fine. An hour later, one luggage theft scare, one boat break down in the middle of the ocean, and one lovely instance in which our boat driver asked me if I thought he was trying to kidnap us (only a little...) Ali and I finally arrived on Perhentian Kecil Island for a few days of beach and sun and food and beach and sun.
Literally, that's all we did. Deciding we needed a little extra time than originally planned, we spent four lovely days walking from our hostel (to those wondering, Shari La does in fact have AC dorms they don't advertise) to Long Beach, a beautiful stretch of white sand and crystal water. We befriended a slightly socially awkward, sun sensitive, and extremely friendly British man slash snorkeling-enthusiast, with whom we spent the next few days swimming, laying, eating and snorkeling. It was a glorious friendship except for that time we convinced ourselves that Michael had hung out with us and convinced us of his innocence as part of an elaborate ruse in an effort to steal all of our belongings by way of offering to lock them in his locker for a few hours after we checked out. Turns out this was not the case, he simply got sidetracked talking about snorkeling on the way to the beach that day. Oh well. No harm no foul, right? Friendship intact.
After an amazing and necessary post Korea-moving-KL-madness stress reliever, Ali and I finally pealed ourselves off the glorious white sand and embarked on a lovely boat-taxi-bus-ferry journey. During the next 12 hours we would meet the half Malay half Australian married man of our dreams (and his wife), hang out in an A+W Root Beer drinking floats and hanging out with some ten year old Malay boys for a good three hours, get stalked at the bus station by a creepy creepy man ( "I see your stalking, and raise you a preemptive assault" - A.W.) and finally find ourselves in our final Malaysian destination.
[Penang, Malaysia] As an introduction to Palau Penang, Malaysia I shall once again quote my Korea Seoul-mate, and travel companion Ali, "Penang is the most delicious place I have ever been."
As the result of a less than stellar night bus ride, during which I was pretty sure my human-pretzeled legs were going to end up permanently attached to both my pack and the seat, Ali and I arrived in Penang in dire need of a nap. We literally passed out on the couch in the lobby of the guesthouse and had to be shaken awake when our beds were ready. It was awkward. After a few hours spent sleeping on pillows I swear were made of baby angels and rainbows, we decided it was time to wander. And wander is what we did for the bulk of our time in Penang. We spent hours strolling through the streets of Georgetown, enjoying the remnants of British colonial architecture, poking our heads into various temples [Chinese Buddhist, Hindu, Mosques] and absorbing all of the wonderful cultures and communities represented on the Island.
As a former crown jewel of the East India Trading company, and an
important trade post for goods traveling to and from Asia, Malaysia is
home to a wonderful blend of cultures, unique to the region. This blend
is highlighted perfectly on the Island of Penang, and even more perfectly in the local cuisine. (I should stop pretending like eating isn't my favorite part of travel...) In between a visit to the Penang Cultural Museum, and checking out the various temples, we stumbled upon a pamphlet describing the various dishes available, a note that Penang had the best food in all of Malaysia, and a wonderful map dictating a few street food tours of the city. We were in. Obviously. Thus began the first chapter of "Emily and Ali eat their way through South East Asia." Over the course of one afternoon, in lieu of lunch and dinner, we decided to hit up a circuit of the noted street stall establishments. We worked our way through Little India sampling one of everything. Including, but not limited to, some sort of mung bean coconut porridge, salted roasted chickpeas, a cold rice noodle, palm sugar, shaved coconut concoction and tea (teh) tarik, a delicious frothy chai-esque tea.
That was all before we found this man...
and the most delicious samosas I have ever had in my life. Seriously amazing. Hot and crispy on the outside. Curried deliciousness on the inside. We ate about a million. And the man laughed a lot when we came back multiple times (and days in a row). Ali swears she can never eat another samosa in her life because nothing will every be as good. I can only hope (and assume) I will find some wortthy competetors in (Big) India. Ali, alas, will be left broken hearted (unless I can sneak some through customs) because, in a cruel twist of fate, we left Penang on a Sunday. And Sunday, my friends, is apparently Samosaman's day off. Nothing else could have thwarted our plans of buying a giant bag full to carry us through the 20 hour train ride ahead.
Having given it the once over, I am not actually sure I am doing Malaysia justice with this post. Yes there are parts that are dirty, yes there are places where people stare. But, such is true of almost everywhere I have been. Final verdict? Malaysia was a bit raw at times but, in reality, was under-ratedly-awesome. Not really knowing what to expect, it was like nowhere I have ever been before. It was an amazing blend of cultures [ Chinese, Indian, and ethnic Malay] all pressed up against each other, simultaneously mixing and remaining separate and distinct entities. I certainly don't regret going, and there a some parts I would certainly revisit should I get the time/opportunity/ca$h-mon-ee. This time around, 10 days were just enough. We had our fun and, as it was, had an important appointment to keep in Bangkok.
See you back in the Land of Smiles my friends,
Emily
WAIT!
Don't go yet!!!
Before you go back to work (I know you're at work) take a moment to check out some lovely original artwork here! I will only be selling prints for a few more weeks and awesome photos are the perfect gift for all those people who you forgot about this holiday season! Make sure everyone knows you still love them, even if holidays make you a little spazzy! Promise they'll forgive :)
Ok, now you can go. Bye friends!
Malaysia Travel Links :
http://wikitravel.org/en/Perhentian_Islands
http://wikitravel.org/en/Penang
http://oldpenang.com/
http://food.malaysiamostwanted.com/venues/penang-special-samosa-queen-street
http://www.airasia.com/my/en/home.page
http://www.seat61.com/Malaysia.htm
















